Notes from California

The following are some random observations about our trip to California. For those just joining us, we flew into San Francisco, and drove Highway 101 down to San Luis Obispo to attend my cousin’s wedding. We returned to San Fran via the historic Highway 1, staying over night in Big Sur.

• The most entertaining moment was at a lookout point along Highway 1. We parked to take in yet another stunning view of the ragged coastline. Nearby, a woman was feeding Cheesies to the squirrels which competed with sea gulls for snacks. I watched as the squirrels—clearly old hands at being hand-fed—got bolder and bolder. The woman was hunkered down, and her gaze flickered between the rodents and her husband and young daughter. There was a sense of inevitability as the squirrels inched closer and closer. Eventually, as the woman looked up, one hopped up onto her knee. She let out an ear-shattering shriek, the animals all went scattering, and her family collapsed in hysterics. I struggled not to laugh. You can see a rare smile on my face in this photo, taken moments after the incident.
• We visited the New Camaldoli Hermitage, which is a monastery and retreat center high (and I mean high, here’s the view) above Highway 1 on the central coast. It was begun by Camaldolese monks in 1958. In the bookstore, we met a brother who had been there since 1959–that’s 47 years! They do a rip-roaring business as a retreat center (there’s a six-month waiting list), as well as fruitcake and fudge (you’ll recall that monks make great entrepeneurs). They also have a kick-ass URL: www.contemplation.com.
• Big Sur seems to be California’s Tofino. I was shocked by the lack of development in the region (though Carmel to the north seems to be booming).
• We had an overpriced but tasty lunch at Nepenthe, which is apparent a Big Sur institution. In terms of a view, it ranks in my top ten restaurants. They’ve even got a webcam.