Hola from Havana. We’ve been in-country for three days, exploring the crumbling beauty that is Havana Vieja (‘Old Havana’). The city is like no other I’ve ever seen–decrepit, but full of life; impoverished, but joyful; free of advertising, but full of enterprising spirit. The oddities run on and on–despite having such a poor populace, it’s nearly free of crime, and probably safer than most North American cities.
Mercifully, the city is light on tourists. This may be down to the time of year and the focus on the all-inclusive resorts, but I certainly appreciate it. The tourists that you do see are a great polyglot–Mexican seniors, Colombian students, German volksporters.
The city is a photographer’s dream–there are beautiful, unique sites no matter where you look. I’ve done my best to capture some of them, but my best isn’t going to do much justice to what we’ve seen.
The high point of the last three days has been a tour of the Teatro Gran, a 19th century theatre currently being restored in the centre of town. While the auditorium was impressive, more interesting was the busyness going on in the halls about it. The theatre houses a flamenco school–I mistook the thunderous roar of dance practice for construction noise. We passed a classroom where the students learned other subjects. As our guide put it, “maths, English, make-up.”
In another room, a chorus was preparing for the forthcoming production of The Magic Flute. There were more people at work in this theatre than any I’ve ever seen. The most interesting room was the cavernous scene shop, where we stopped to chat with the designers and scenic artists. They were sitting around, “waiting for supplies”. A cat slumbered peacefully in a chair.
We’ve got one more day in Havana, then it’s onward to one of the aforementioned all-inclusives in Veradero for four nights of maxin’ and relaxin’. Maybe there’s something to this socialism, after all. Remind me when I get back, though, to write about tourist guilt.
DarrenBarefoot.com 
Don’t forget the secret police and the AIDs victims banished to prison islands. I don’t think I could go to Cuba while the old beared guy is in power.
Come on Darren, cut to the chase. How are the Cuban Cigars?
I would really like to go to Cuba, as I would like to see a socialist country in action. It’s on my list for sure. In Ulaan Baatar and Mongolia, you could really see the changes, since the city has only transitioned to a market economy in the past 10 years. There are also few tourists and little advertising.
Hey Darren – Long time fan, first time poster….
I think Havana is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. 2 things:
1. Get to a cigar factory. There’s one behind the Capitol.
2. Get to the Mambo Club for a night when you are in Veradero. Lotsa Argentinians, and music and dance that’ll blow your tree. Don’t miss.
Peace.
HB
Cuba plenty of my friends have been and thoroughly enjoyed it. One of the best heathcare providers in the world beats britain’s nhs (free) and kicks the USA’s ass (not free).
As I read this, I note that it is snowing hard in downtown Vancouver!
My ex-wife and my daughter are in Veradero this week.
Only 8 years-old, she’s been to Cuba twice now.
Lucky kid.
A city of binary opposites. My impressions of Havana are much the same as Darren’s. I wish I’d read your post earlier so that I could recommend the trip on the ferry to Regla, which is across from Old Havana. Regla is the centre of Afro-Cuban religions and it has a long history of revolutionary traditions. I climbed up this hill to see a beautiful olive tree, planted above the massive sculpted head of Lenin. You can’t get that sort of communism here.
Hi, I just found your website by an internet search. I have been enamored by Cuba since being their in January. I notice you were there at the same time. I have a friend who I have chatted with for several years who goes to Cuba very often. In fact, his partner is a Cuban he met there several years ago. They live in San Diego now. Well, I was there from Jan 7-14 but stayed in Havana the whole time. I have tried to read everything I can on Cuba, as I find it to be an interesting place. I actually met a woman staying in our hotel from Vancouver, who got to Cuba by initially flying to Toronto and then to Havana. We flew from Tijuana-Monterrey-Havana, as it is stupid that you can’t get flights out of the US (stupid US foreign policy). I recently got a card from a friend in Cuba of the Varadero area, and looked online and saw their facilities. Very nice. Hope you had a great time.
Don